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The Everyday Gourmet
Travel Newsletter:
August 2002
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THE SPRING TRIPS
It never seems as though I’m gone very long, but
somehow time just manages to slip away. The spring was no exception.
It was interesting to note that tourism is SLOWLY
returning to Italy. It’s nowhere near normal but is definitely
improving. In May the Ponte Vecchio is usually a mass of moving heads –
this time I could walk across without feeling as though I was being
rushed by an aggressive football frontline. Unfortunately, the usual
number of student tours were noisily evident. Since spring is usually
more crowded it will be interesting to see what fall brings. Fewer
tourists are a mixed blessing; diminished crowds are definitely welcome
at any time.
PROVENCE
We had such a good time in Provence. Gordes is the
PERFECT home base: small but accessible with enough shopping to keep
everyone busy. And the rest of the Luberon is within easy reach.
There were so many experiences imprinted in memory:
the chef/teacher in Avignon whose specialty was melons. Can you imagine
an entire menu based on melons? Neither could we, but he made it happen.
Of course, our 4 women were a big hit with the Frenchmen in the class.
Language isn’t an issue in these situations.
Another cooking class with Chef Patrick produced one
of the best tarte tatins we tasted. We also made bread with Peter
Mayle’s (A Year in Provence) baker-friend, Monsieur Auzet and his
delightful wife. He and Peter have collaborated on a book due out soon –
I’ll keep you posted.
It was a toss-up as to our favorite meal. Chef Mary
Ann in Gordes served us simple but FABULOUS provencal food. And, her
warm welcoming personality made it even more special. She has committed
to doing classes for us in the future.
Our intrepid foursome amazed everyone by being out the
door at 6am for th
eir
morning walk – back in time for the homemade breakfast treats from
innkeeper, Nadine. She was so impressed with the “sporting women” that
she devised a special canyon hike as a personal bon voyage for them. In
fact, these 4 Americans were a good-will envoy who made friends
everywhere and were constantly being invited to do special things by the
local residents.
Our farewell dinner and cooking class at Carla’s
(right) prepared by Chef Ann and served overlooking the surrounding
countryside was extraordinary. The perfect ending to a great trip.
TUSCANY
Dropped everyone at the train station in Avignon, and
hightailed it on the autostrada to Tuscany – a mere 7 hour drive away! I
really must speak to my scheduler about these issues! Arrived in the
nick of time at the train station, transferred luggage and we were on
our way to the Chianti countryside.
Group dynamics are always interesting to observe. In
this instance, we had 6 family members and one “outside” couple. By the
2nd day, we had a cohesive group of 8 all of whom were busy joining in
the celebration of Jim & Susan’s 20th anniversary (the outside couple).
I
definitely
encourage everyone to share their anniversary celebrations – Jim treats
to amazing wines! By the end of the week I wasn’t sure they were going
to be able to part company with the Davises (Bob Davis, left) and
continue to their next stop!
Tuscany is so welcoming it’s difficult to determine
ONE highlight. However, the lunch in Siena probably is high on
everyone’s list, we started lunch at 12:30 and almost missed the special
showing of the Palio movie at 4pm! Now that’s SERIOUS eating. The chef
there is truly an artist – he may be making a guest appearance in the US
sometime in the future.
Not to be outshone was the special lunch at Sr.
Cappelli’s. Bea did her usual “small” meal topped off by the BEST
DESSERT IN THE WORLD. Signore Cappelli (pictured below, right) surprised
us all by demonstrating an impressive command of English (heretofore
kept a secret from all who know him – though I must say we suspected as
much). The old fox has always pretended to not speak English.
We ate outside, inside, on the run and at length. In
orde
r
to keep up with our eating schedule, several of the group had to walk or
run the Chianti hills – that way working up more of an appetite.
Chef Vincenzo did his usual fabulous job with the
cooking classes. This time joining us for our farewell dinner at the
Villa. It was great fun to present him with a huge bottle of aged grappa
as a thank you
RIVIERA/CINQUE TERRE
Then it was off to the beautiful Italian Riviera and
some of the best scenery Italia has to offer. Our genial hotelkeeper,
Claudio, was on hand to welcome us and make us feel at ease – not that
it’s difficult in this friendly area. A major hit was when he offered us
his wife’s private stash of home-made Limoncello – all others paled in
comparison.
A tour of the Rapallo Market with CHEF FAUSTO was a
great way to start the week – in his Kelly green blazer he was as
colorful as the vegetables; possibly more so. He is not just a fabulous
chef; he is also an extraordinary human being. His philosophy of living
life to the fullest and enjoying every minute is something one “feels”
in his restaurant and all of his interactions. We were a very busy group
and produced some outstanding food for the restaurant – and, ourselves,
of course! (Fausto, photo right)
After that it was a whirlwind tour of one beautiful
town after the other. I’m sure the merchants in Portofino are happy we
decided to visit. We were fortunate to witness some special events on
other visits: in Vernazza (on the Cinque Terre) a little girl was making
her first communion, whereas in Portovenere there was the “picture
perfect” bride walking to her scenic wedding. Has to be one of the best
places to get married. And who can forget, Clara, the daughter of the
cheese maker in the hills of Liguria?
Competition for outstanding moments was tough, but I
must admit, I think the prize goes to the group of Italian men seated
next to us at our luncheon on the Isle of Palmaria – they were funny
beyond belief! (photo left) Especially when they turned the tables and
began to take OUR pictures! I don’t know when I’ve laughed so much. (Of
course the real joke was that they understood and spoke English
perfectly, so all of our comments were not exclusively ours)
Our Grand Finale Dinner at Fausto’s Restaurant
followed by an evening on the Hotel Riviera Veranda gazing at the sea
was a perfect finish to the week.
That’s about it for the spring wrap-up – hope to see
you soon on another trip –
Ciao,
BEV
FALL TOUR UPDATES
For those who have inquired as to status of fall
trips, here’s a quick update on availability:
- Provence Sept. 22-29 Space available
- Riviera/Cinque Terre Sept. 28-Oct.5 Full, wait list
available
- Venice Oct. 6-13 Space Available
- Tuscany Oct. 13-20 Full, wait list available
- Amalfi Oct. 27-Nov. 3 Almost full
- SPRING PHOTO ALBUM
- Click to see more photos from Spring Trips
- 2003 Tour Dates
Click for new schedule
Past newsletters: April 2002,
Fall/Winter 2001
