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The Everyday Gourmet
Travel Newsletter: January 2002
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BALSAMICO RICHES
(or How Travel Can Make You Rich – not just Enriched)
I was recently contacted by FRAN
FELDMAN (Tuscany, Oct. 97) about an advertisement for 100 year old
Traditionale Balsamico @$795 for 4oz.! This news caused me to research
my records for our fabulous 1995 trip when we visited the now-famous
balsamico master Leonardi at his farm. This was the tour arranged for us
by my colleague, the not-yet-famous FAITH WILLINGER. Leonardi was later
featured in Pamela Sheldon Johns’ book “Balsamico”.
We were met in Modena by genial
host Nano Morandi (owner of Giusti Salumeria) who guided us to the
nearby farm of Leonardi. We visited his rustic acetaia and tasted 20,
40, 60 and 126 yr old balsamico (known as the patriarch). We then went
inside where Sr. Leonardi poured a lavish amount of balsamico over
exquisite chunks of parmigiano. I inquired as to the age of the
balsamico he was ladling on – we all gasped as FAITH informed us it was
the Patriarch (126 year old).
Thereafter followed a tasting, the
likes of which I’ve never seen again. Then, to everyone’s surprise
(including FAITH) Leonardi offered to sell us a bottle of his fabulous
balsamico. Aaaaaargh – none of us had expected it and we had NO money.
Of course his farm did not take credit cards. SHOPPING CRISIS!
FAITH rescued us by offering to
write a personal check, then we reimbursed her. We were able to purchase
the 126 year old for $100 (retailing then for $400). I figure it’s worth
about $1000 now! – better than most stocks. I’ve kept my bottle and
mainly use it for “bragging rights”. As I say, I’m not sure I know
anyone special enough (including me) to serve it to! It’s a given that
travel enriches on multiple levels – but this one was a bit more
tangible than usual.
That particular trip was memorable
in another way – we had the most incredible meal at Salumeria Giusti
where Nano’s wife is the chef. It was there that I fell madly in love
with Moscato d’Asti. I’ve now expanded a bit and have Moscato for my
after dinner drink – me who never liked dessert wines. I’ve been a
convert since 1995 and since I rarely eat desserts, the moscato works
for me. My recent passion – discovered last year in Rome – is the
Moscato di Pantelleria. It comes from a little island off the coast of
Sicily and is fantastic. I’ve found it in stores here, but always stock
up at the Rome airport on my way home.
As I reflect on those experiences
it inspires me to consider doing another combination Tuscany/Emilia
Romagna tour – I’ll have to check the schedule and see if I can fit it
in. We did such a combination tour in 1997 and had some of the best
meals of our lives. It was one glorious meal after another – we were
never hungry enough to do the next meal justice, but we made valiant
efforts. A fabulous time.
AMALFI COAST TRIP –PLANNED FOR 2002
I’m on my way to visit a new location in the famed AMALFI COAST area. A
beautiful spot that I’ve wanted to have in my repertoire for some time,
ever since I visited it a few years ago. A fantastically beautiful area
with fascinating food – mozzarella di buffala, Neapolitan pizza, the
home of LIMONCELLO. We’ll probably be based in Ravello which perches
high above the coast and has truly breathtaking views. Hope to have this
ready for fall of 2002
CARNIVAL – Feb. 22-March 2, 2003
It’s not too early to begin thinking and planning for CARNIVAL 2003! We
had such a fabulous time in 2001, that several participants are planning
to return and are hard at work on their costumes!
Current planning calls for including one of the MAJOR MASKED BALLS as
well as many other costumed events – gondola rides with dinner, parades,
cooking classes in a fabulous Palazzo, Rialto Market, interesting tours
and tastings. It’s a fabulous experience made all the more exciting by
being in costume. Several participants last year joined in the Parade of
Masks and were on the Giant TV Screen in St. Mark’s Square! Glory.
Costume Note: Great websites for reasonably-priced costumes:
I
just ordered a new costume - Justification is that my upcoming
exploratory trip involves the last 3 days of Carnival – I had to have a
new costume for the event. Will stop in to see our lovely
hostess/cooking instructor, Fulvia, when I’m there. The meals at her
Palazzo are a never to be forgotten experience.
Remember this trip falls during the traditional Low Season for airline
tickets; a great time to travel. Plus February is the dry time in
Venice. All in all, a great time to be in
Italy.
This n That
New Italian Product Website:
a new website that has just about anything
Italian you could want: olive oils, cheese, balsamico, foodstuffs from
all regions. Give them a try – they have special discounts for
first-time buyers:
www.esperya.com.
Book Suggestions:
for
those of you who love mysteries, I’ve recently become acquainted with
mystery writer Michael Dibdin who specializes in a series of books all
set in various cities in
Italy,
featuring Detective Aurelio Zen. They’ve been around a while but I just
found out about them. They can be purchased used at
www.half.com. Many of them are out of print so this is about the
only place to find them. Do a search by author. Email me if you want a
list of titles.
2002 TRIPS
While it’s impossible to predict world
situations for spring, it’s reasonable to assume that travel will be
returning to normal with heightened security measures making us all more
comfortable. It will be nice when our airport security is improved.
APULIA/PUGLIA – May 5-12
TUSCANY – May 12-19 & Oct. 13-20
VENICE- May 19-26 & Oct 6-13
RIVIERA/CINQUE TERRE – May 26-June 2 & Sept 29-Oct 6
PROVENCE - May 5-12
AMALFI COAST –Oct. 20-27 (tentative)
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