Beverly Gruber's Everyday Gourmet Traveler

 

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JUNE 2005

The Everyday GOURMET TRAVELER Newsletter

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To quote that famous philosopher, Gilda, “it’s always something.”  Last spring was the missing luggage.  This spring it was THE HAIRCUT that so traumatized me one of my witty clients suggested I was going to need therapeutic intervention to help get me past it.  While I needed a haircut, I didn’t need the one I got – which resulted in a very European look, but not one with which I was especially comfortable.  It took 2 months for it to begin to reach a reasonable length.  So everyone from May 8 on was subject to my distress.  Oh, well, these things do happen.  Thanks to all for tolerating my grousing. (photo above, L)

The trips for spring were just GREAT!  I’d finish one group and think it couldn’t get any better, and the next group would surprise me.  Culminating in the WONDERFUL WOMEN of Tuscany.  Not sure when I’ve laughed so hard.  And, of course, the Italian men rolled out the welcome mat.  Life can be so unfair.

COOKING IN PARADISE - AMALFI
May 1-8, (week 1)

Amalfi has to be about the easiest place to ease into the Mediterranean style, and Ravello is the best there is.  It quickly insinuates itself into the fiber of your being and becomes home away from home – welcoming at the end of a day’s excursions.

By the end of our van ride from Naples to Ravello, Deanna had already interviewed us all, which facilitated immediate bonding - this was a group comfortable with each other from the get-go; funny how that happens.  One of the most memorable events was that the wisteria was in full bloom – first time that occurred during a visit.  Rob has special memories of the wisteria at our welcome dinner – dining outside under the stars in balmy weather.  Memorable on several counts.

Next day Anna expertly guided us around Ravello, followed by panini lunch in the town square, free time to explore, and then off to Mamma’s cooking class.  Chiara, Mamma’s daughter and organizer of the classes, introduced us to her new baby, Paola - just 2 months old.  Older brother, Mario continues to be a delightful exuberant little boy.  It Is such a treat to be allowed into their home.  During the crepe-making contest, Philip easily came in first place with best technique. (R-Team Debbie & Philip)

The mozzarella lady was waiting for us the next morning, once again demonstrating her patience and skill with making this delicious cheese.  Giorgio at the cameo store welcomed us into his private museum and explained the various treasures on display.  He is such a kind, generous man – and his work is lovely. 

Angela, our sommelier in Amalfi, enthusiastically led us through a thorough examination (tasting) of the wines of Campania, paired with a delightful light lunch.  We knew we were off to Mamma’s for another BIG cooking class, so the light lunch was most welcome.  Cooking class was all about fish:  fresh anchovies, squid, sea bass, mussels, clams; you name it, we cooked and ate it.  Rob & Claudia won the prize for cleaning the most squid. 
(L-Rob & fishy friend)

The weather forecast was looking like a change, so we switched plans and went to Capri on Wednesday instead of Thursday as scheduled.  Had smooth sailing the whole way, and great weather on Capri –definitely the right choice.  Next day was Vietri sul Mare, center of great ceramics (where Anne snagged a great ceramic pizza cutter that I lusted after), plus a visit to Cetara for lunch and the anchovy processor.  As usual, it is always a surprise to see that the anchovies are processed almost completely by hand – tedious work, but it is a job and jobs are not always plentiful.

That afternoon, Margaret made an important decision – she got her hair cut at a local hairdresser.  It looked so great, I became inspired to follow suit and get a trim.  Oh well, some days cherries some days pits!   Next day it was off to Pompeii.  I had gotten word that Nino, my regular guide was ill, and a previous guide, Gianni would be with us.  Gianni was really excellent.  The real trick was finding the pizza restaurant that Nino had introduced me to.  We finally found it and once again were the only English speaking people in the restaurant - as always. (see Margaret's photo R- and compare it to my chop job at the top)

That evening was the musical performance and it was spectacular – piano and flute.  I truly think it was one of the best performances I’ve attended in Ravello.  Being able to participate in these local events is such a treat.  No wonder Ravello is known as the City of Music.

Next day was Positano and all the shopping anyone could possibly desire.  Lunch on the waterfront, then back to Ravello for the new Special Dinner of Traditional Foods of the region, Campania.  We were honored to be the first participants in this new event.  It was, indeed, a perfect way to end a glorious week – local foods and traditions, served on special ceramics, with one taste treat after another.  It made it even more difficult to leave this lovely setting the next morning, but we did. (L-our very own rainbow)

THE TASTES & TRADITIONS OF SICILY
(November 2-9, 2005)

After Tuscany I headed to Venice (hotel hunting) then on to Sicily for a walk through of this newest tour.  In 1978 I fell in love with the “idea” of Sicily, and, at long last my dream is realized with this new tour.  I am thrilled beyond description. (Photo R- Cefalu beach view)

You can set aside any preconceived notions you might have about Sicily (Al Pacino notwithstanding), this is a land of sunny warmth and generous, kind people eager to share the uniqueness of Sicily with you. 

I have a special memory of the ceramic artisan who very carefully positioned me and my camera so we could get the best photo of HIM working.  After which he sent us to a nearby trattoria for lunch – as his guests.  He is one of the many artisans we visit.

Because my colleague is a native Sicilian we have a wonderful opportunity to visit the REAL Sicily – places where the average tourist simply never goes.  Of course, we visit the famous places too: Palermo, Monreale, Segesta, Erice, Marsala, Mt. Etna, Taormina.  But it is in our visit to a small hill town that I feel we take a step back to a simpler time and place.  Believe me; you don’t want to miss this; a moment to treasure.

And, of course, our time in Taormina (jewel of the Mediterranean) is made even more wonderful by the choice of our hotel – located near the center of town, but with breathtaking views of the sea (photo L). Taormina will charm you – just as it did Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton many years ago, and still fascinates travelers today. 

As a bonus for this trip, you will be traveling when airfares are lowest – all prices drop November 1.  And, Sicily is still pleasantly warm at this time of year.  In fact, it is one of the best times to travel there – November & April are prime.

So, mark your calendars and prepare yourself for a real treat. 

THE MAGIC OF - VENICE CARNIVAL!
(February 22-March 1)

My quest in Venice was for a new hotel for our Carnival trip next February of 2006.  I found the perfect hotel, but they are sooooo popular they are always fully booked.  For Carnival 2006 they only had 4 rooms available – which I promptly put on hold.  But, that means anyone interested needs to contact me ASAP.  They will only hold the rooms until September.  So if you’re thinking of doing this, contact me soon.

I was only in Venice for 3 days, but managed to visit several of the people who will be doing events for us in February: the glass expert who guides us through Murano, the cooking teacher, several of my favorite restaurants, the chocolatier, and, of course, the woman who plans and executes the Doge Ball (most famous of all the Carnival events). 

Don’t miss this GRAND PARTY – when Venice plays host to the world in this spectacular event. 

THE TASTES OF TUSCANY
(May 15-22)

It’s not often I’m at a loss for words, but in searching for the right ones for this group I may come up short!  At some point we were having so much fun and time passed so quickly, we were sure we had skipped a day somewhere.  That saying “time flies when you’re having fun” really applied to this week.  It was non-stop fun. 
(L-artist sketch of our villa)

This group had already bonded when I met up with them in Florence!  From our tour of Florence’s Central Market to our fabulous lunch at Mario’s (I’m happy to report that Theresa, my favorite waitress, was back in her best form and taking good care of us), to our cooking class with Vincenzo the week was off to a great start. 

Even some rain in Siena couldn’t dampen our spirits – we managed to shop til we dropped anyway.  Paolo our guide is always appreciative when I bring him groups of women.  But I think Michele, our pizza man (photo-R), was ecstatic (more on that later).  That evening we dined at a favorite “view” restaurant near our villa and had an exquisite meal. 

Wednesday’s cooking class was the highlight of the week.  Bea skillfully guided us through some more of Sr. Cappelli’s famous recipes, ending with the best dessert in the world – THE apple tart with gelato and balsamico.  The murmurs of appreciation went on for quite some time.  There was a consensus that we had turned out a fabulous meal – featuring the best pasta we had tasted!

Then came our leather making visits – first to the producer of really high end handbags, belts, etc. where each of us found something we just couldn’t live without.  Afterward we went to Carlo, the custom leather maker in Panzano – surprise, surprise – there were some shoes just waiting for some of us to choose.  I always think having a pair of shoes made just for YOU is an indulgence worth doing.  I would have to say, however, that the decision-making process is NOT quick, but it was VERY satisfying. 

Next morning we went to Volpaia for our wine & olive oil tour & tasting – once again, the company store did well.  But we were late getting to shop of Dario, the world-famous Butcher of Panzano – and another group had come in and eaten our food!  Not that we were in any danger of starving to death, we just missed some good treats.  Dario was looking sharp as ever and the shop was packed.  After that we visited our watercolor artist in Greve and I was pleased to see he had finally finished the watercolor of our Villa. (see photo above)

That evening was our pizza party at Michele’s.  He loved having the attention of all these women and put on quite a show for us.  After dessert he dashed outside and came in with fresh cut roses for each of us – what a guy.  He certainly knows how to charm.  (see photos with roses below) 

Friday was our catch up day in Florence – to get all those things we had by-passed on Monday.  Jane then guided us through the highlights of the Uffizi and the David.  A very satisfying day, followed by a dinner back in the tiny village of Volpaia that turned out to be just FABULOUS.  And, it was a surprise birthday celebration for Sandy & Royce with candles in their panna cotta!  Celebrating a birthday or other special occasion in Italy is about as good as it gets.  And in this case, surrounded by a great group of women.  We had a WONDERFUL time – and fortunately they had put us in a private room so no one noticed how much noise we made.  I’ll definitely go back there. (L-birthday dinner, R-Sandy)

Our last day began with Greve’s open air market which was greeted with great enthusiasm by these shoppers.  It always comes as a shock that it is possible to find really good quality items at markets such as this.  After a panini lunch in the square we headed back to the villa to pack and do our last cooking class and Farewell Dinner.

It was tough for this group to part and they did so vowing to do a repeat in the future.  I can hardly wait! (Photo below: Awesome 8 w/Roses)




COOKING IN PARADISE - AMALFI
 
May 8-15, (week 2)    

From time to time people ask me if it ever gets boring going the same places and doing the same things over again.  I always respond by explaining that each group brings its own way of experiencing a place, so even if I’ve been there before it takes on a freshness and newness created by the dynamic of the group I’m with.  That was especially true this year when, for the first time, I had two groups back to back in the same location -due to the continuing popularity of Amalfi. (R- us at dinner)

My second Amalfi groups brought an entirely different approach from the preceding week.  Interestingly, I had a mother/daughter team and a mother/son duo, plus two good friends. Although we had a cloudy beginning to our walking tour of Ravello, that was the end of questionable weather the rest of the week – something we always hope for – and the Amalfi Coast usually delivers.

I’d have to say our cooking classes (as well as all other activities) were livened up quite a bit by John’s wonderful antics – Mamma loved him (just like Rob the previous week).  I’ve concluded that she has a definite soft spot for the men.  As usual, Mamma just doesn’t think we eat enough – even though John did his best to live up to her high standards. (L-John in Naples, no we didn't eat there)

THE BIG topic of conversation with Anna, Mamma, Chiara, and Alessandra at the limoncello factory was the news that Kurt and Cindy (Amalfi 10/03) were getting married this October.  Since Kurt & Cindy met on that 2003 trip, everyone in Ravello is taking full credit for the happy event.  We all participated and offered opinions as to which bottle of limoncello looked best with the bomboniere for the wedding.  We finally decided to take a sample of each bottle back for them to choose – carefully wrapped and schlepped around Italy for the next month in my suitcase.  Truly a group effort. 

Again, we had to change our expedition to Capri because of weather predictions – and again, they didn’t come true.  But we had a great time on Capri.  I managed to find a very special pair of shoes as mementos – anyone who has traveled with me knows I have a shoe “thing”.  I was pleased to find something reasonably priced on the island – needless to say they weren’t in the Gucci store.

Our visit to Vietri Sul Mare and the various ceramic producers was a profitable one – especially for the merchants.  We all managed to find something, but had most items shipped.  Nothing worse than trying to haul around heavy ceramic plates!  My personal triumph was that I happened to step into a shop – looking for some missing members of our group – when I spotted the great ceramic handled pizza cutters that Anne had found the previous week!  Bought two and ran out the door. 

On our Pompeii/Naples day I made a fascinating discovery in the Naples Galleria.  In the center is a series of mosaics each depicting a sign of the zodiac.  I was fascinated – as many times as I’d been there, stood in the same spot, I had never noticed it before.  It was while we were waiting for John to have his photos downloaded onto a cd that I saw them.  Guess it really does pay to be patient.  I originally planned to put each person’s photo with their astrologic sign, but can’t find the notebook telling me who was what.  Oh well – good idea anyway.

The real shock came when we went for our pizza.  Same restaurant, but in the space of one week Heineken had taken over and there was no Italian beer served.  I couldn’t believe it.  In fact, I was so skeptical  I went out to check the spigots on the taps.  I encountered the same thing the next week in Tuscany.  I’m not sure what’s going on but I think there’s something wrong when you can’t get an Italian beer on tap in Italy.

Our Farewell Dinner at Mamma’s was different from the previous week in that there were other people there.  It is more like a private dining experience with very limited seating – max 16/20.  The food is so delicious and learning about the history of the foods is great fun.  A picture perfect ending to a lovely week. (R - night lighting in Ravello)

Next morning, we were off and running – me to Tuscany, four to Rome and two reluctantly returning home.

That's about it for now - Hope to see YOU soon on a tour.

   Ciao, Beverly

2005/06 TOUR SCHEDULE

FALL

2005

Spring

2006

Fall

2006

Sept. 25 -Oct 2

Cinque Terre & Riviera

Feb.22-March 1

Venice Carnival!

Oct. 1-8

Amalfi Coast

Oct 9 – 16
(FULL)

Amalfi Coast

April 30-May 7

Amalfi Coast

Oct. 8-15

Rome

Oct 16-23

Umbria

May 7-14

Provence

Oct 8-15

Umbria

Oct 23-30

Tuscany

May 14-21

Tuscany (tentative)

Oct 15-22

Tuscany

Nov 2 – 9

Sicily

May 21-28

Cinque Terre & Riviera (tentative)

Oct. 29-Nov. 5

Sicily

Custom Tours arranged for 2 or more,
Groups of 6 or more
 

Past newsletters
Winter 2004/5:: Fall 2004:: Spring 2004:: Winter2003 :: April 2003 :: January, 2003 :: Spring, 2002 :: April 2002 :: Fall/Winter 2001 

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