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The Everyday GOURMET TRAVELER Newsletter
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DECEMBER - 2003

Fall Tours (Sept/Oct)

Since I was still IN Italy into November, there wasn't a Fall Newsletter, but Fall was absolutely stupendous - Fabulous Groups, AND a brand new location that should go to the top of everyone's list (Umbria). Minor disruptions were the major BLACKOUT and my dysfunctional leased car.

Venice- Carnival! Feb. 2004

I went to Venice first to put finishing touches on Carnival 2004.  Met with the new mask maker who has an award winning shop and has been making masks for 20 years.  They're going to do a demonstration of the entire process. Then I met with a new Murano Glass gallery owner who will make a presentation on how art glass is constructed.  Next we'll go to Murano for a private glass blowing demonstration from some outstanding new artists.  Of course, we'll have to repeat our special lunch at Buca - one of the best meals we've had in Venice.  Our new hotel is really a jewel, located 1/2 block from a vaporetto stop (no steps), on a canal with a water entrance for taxis.  A small hotel in the quiet Dorsoduro, but with great access to everything.  Beautiful frescoes on the ceilings, rooms so large you can roller skate in them!

In the works are a special Pub Tour, where we eat the little snacks (cichetti) for which Venice is famous and a private wine tasting, plus a walking tour of the various "neighborhoods" (sestiere) of Venice.  This year we're attending the Grand Doge Ball - considered the BEST of all the private parties.  I'm having a Royal Purple gown made just for the occasion.  Now I just have to find the perfect mask to go with it.  Venice is the ONLY place to buy your Carnival Mask - you just won't find these anywhere else.

Join the party  - 2 spaces still available.

Cinque Terre/Riviera - Sept 21-28

Started off on just the right note with this group of 6 friends from the land of Disney, Orlando.  (The Disney tie-in becomes apparent as this story unfolds).  Weather was gorgeous; in fact we  were still running the air-conditioning.

I have to say we basked in sunshine for our tours to all the famous small villages: Portofino, Camogli, Manarola, Monterosso, Santa Margherita, Sestri Levante, and home base of Rapallo.  (Photo: Pete & the BEST Foccacia)

Several events are forever burned into our collective memories: First, has to be the most unusual fish cooking class ever experienced on ANY tour.  We were still talking about it for days afterward and the look on the face of our wonderful local guide, Loredana.  And who will ever forget the day we were greeted by the sight of 20 shiny red Ducati motorcycles parked in front of our hotel.  A group of  Americans who had won a trip traveling Italy on Ducatis!  That night our hotel rocked!

Last, but not least, was the surprise this group had for Fausto.  They had brought for him the MOST PERFECT gifts possible:  Disney Aprons and cooking utensils.  I'm sure he is happily whisking away with his Mickey whisk.  The amazing part of it was that I hadn't forewarned them about Fausto's cartoon collection.  So, obviously, they were kindred souls! Needless to say, the group made a lasting impression! (Photo: The Cartoon Cooks!)

Did I mention that the famous electrical blackout of the entire country took place on the Sunday we were leaving?  No trains, transportation a mess.  Fortunately we all made it out - eventually

Amalfi Coast (Oct 5-12)

After a brief exploratory trip to Piedmont it was off to the lush and beautiful Amalfi Coast.  Our hotel is perfect - perched high above the Amalfi Coast with panoramic views of the sea. Everyone felt pampered and the meals were outstanding.

The bougainvillea was in full bloom when we arrived in for the week. Within one day of arriving, the faces of Ravello residents were familiar to us - and us to them. In a town of 2000 everyone knew we were "the cooking group", and also that we were the group that took over Alfonso's bar on the square.

Let's see, 9 women and 1 man - no wonder we attracted so much attention!  Kurt was the envy of every Italian male we encountered.

About Mamma - our wonderful cooking instructor.  A bundle of energy, good cheer, and producer of more food than any humans can consume!  Classes were great fun, educational and with the views from her patio that are to die for.  We concluded we couldn't have had a better experience. (Photo: patio)

Aside from one morning, the weather gods were with us and we were able to visit Capri.  The lunch there was outstanding, (more panoramic views) and the owner very solicitous. (Remember, 9 women) Our guide, Gianni was fun also - the man whose shirt buttons seemed to loosen as the day wore on.

The area is so rich in product it's difficult to say which was our favorite visit but I think the little Mozzarella producer is high on the list - their enthusiasm was a delight.  They're also famous for Ceramics and our demonstration was fascinating. But I think the Limoncello factory was certainly the favorite taste. We also agreed that the Strawberry made from tiny alpine berries was even better! Put that one on your list.

Then it was off to famous Positano (immortalized in the movie "Under the Tuscan Sun").  This town is picture postcard perfect.  The walk to our beachfront restaurant was arduous - little shops kept reaching out and grabbing us.  Next visit more shopping time!

Our day to Pompeii was perfect  - clear and sunny.  With Vesuvius towering in the background.  A quick lunch stop in Sorrento, followed by a leisurely drive along the scenic Amalfi Coast Highway - and finally back home to Ravello to get ready for our farewell dinner.

I'm not sure anyone was REALLY ready to leave this beautiful area, but the week had come to an end.  A truly  marvelous week of food, fun, laughter, new friends and new experiences.  A week in Paradise.

MAMMA'S LIMONCELLO

1 liter pure alcohol
650 grams sugar
1.25 liter bottled water
8 LARGE organic lemons

• Place skins in jar with alcohol, cover, let sit 7 days.
• After 7 days, boil water and sugar, cool for 3 hours
• Strain liquid from lemon peel mixture
• Add cooled sugar water to lemon-flavored alcohol.
•  Place in bottles and store in freezer.
• Best served deep chilled (won't freeze w/high level alcohol)

In the US it is difficult to obtain pure alcohol - substituting Vodka works, but is different from the potent brew above!

Rome - October 19-26

I was worried that after two great groups I was in for a letdown in Rome.  However, luck was with me.  We happened to meet the afternoon before the "official beginning" and hit it off so well we went to lunch and started our fun early!  I always think sharing at a meal is the best way to get acquainted.

Our hotel couldn't have been more perfect, well located IN the heart of the city, but a quiet old neighborhood.   Each night, after a day's activity we met in our hotel's bar to relive the day's experiences, look at Cathy's computer presentation of the photos for the day, and just share laughs about what happened when we ventured off on our own. 

Here we were again, 8 women - and the Roman men were no exception to the rule of going gaga over a group of single women traveling together.  This time our only male was our driver - and since he was Italian the comments came fast and furious.

This group was special in its makeup - all mothers and daughters.  Traveling with one's daughter is one of life's greatest pleasures.

Our opening dinner was marvelous - the restaurant is located IN the old Roman wall that still surrounds the city. It was a great way to begin. (Photo) After an overview of the city to get our bearings,  we plunged in.  First up was our seminar with the Cheese Master of Rome and he certainly lived up to his billing.  Claudio and his nephew Alessandro put on quite a show! He split a huge wheel of Parmigiano as if by magic, showed us how to carve prosciutto, had us each lift a wheel of Parmigiano, taste balsamico, and some very unusual cheeses from all over Italy.  The MOST amazing shop.

Cooking classes, with Chef Roberta and Sous Chef Carla in Carla's charming home were just great.  With a roaring fire  in the kitchen fireplace to greet us we made fabulous traditional Roman dishes and then dined on our productions!  It's so much fun to share meals with locals and catch a glimpse of everyday life.

Tours were outstanding: Camp de Fiori, Rome's famous outdoor market, was  our first shopping experience - and we made the most of it.  A great lunch at an outdoor trattoria in the market, serenaded by street musicians was a fitting end.  We agreed THIS was the life!

The Vatican and Sistine Chapel tour was remarkable because we were convinced that our guide, Lorenzo, must have been a personal friend of the Pope because he was able to get us in past every line we saw!  It rained on our parade the morning of our Antique Rome tour but it worked out great - we did the Pantheon first (covered), the rain passed and we were able to do the Forum and Coliseum in sunshine.

Our winery tour was a magical experience.  Our guide was the owner, Adriana who is the most enthusiastic I've ever had.She was so proud of their winery that she just couldn't wait to share information with us.    Plus, she had prepared an exceptionally delicious wine/food pairing lunch. As we ate, she explained the various attributes of the wine we were tasting.  A complete experience.

And we had the amazing good fortune to experience first-hand, that old Italian tradition of a strike, a citywide strike of ALL workers.  We had to do a fast reshuffle of our schedule and went to Antique Ostia - Rome's answer to Pompeii.  We toured the ruins, then went to the seashore for an elegant fish lunch.  A very experienced windsurfer kept us transfixed as he traveled up and down the shore. Last but not least, was our trip to see Mozzarella di Buffala. For those of you that don't know it, this famous cheese is made from the milk of water buffalo, NOT bison.  Most of us had never seen water buffalo before. (Photo: Bev & Cheese Master Claudio)

Before we knew it, it was time to say good-by.  Our farewell dinner in our charming neighborhood was absolutely delightful.  I'm sure Italians wonder just WHAT it is that causes Americans to laugh so much. I know Italy hasn't seen the last of this group because we all made sure that we tossed three coins into Trevi fountain to assure our return. (Photo: Group @Cooking Class)

UMBRIA:  Chocolate/Truffles/Wine/Olive Oil - Oh My!  
The "Green Heart of Italy"       

I've fallen in love again - another new region has stolen my heart.  Umbria is wonderful beyond words. For those of you not familiar with its location - it's south of Tuscany and north of Rome (sandwiched between the two).  It is a small region, but unbelievably rich in artisan products:

• Chocolate (Chocolate Festival)
• Truffles (Sept-May)
• Olive Oil
• Wine
• Cheeses
• Sausages
• Majolica Ceramics (non-edible)
• Hand looming - last in Italy

The real bonus:  it hasn't yet been discovered so is not overrun with tourists nor priced out of sight! 

Our home base is just outside the grand city of Perugia in a meticulously restored Country Inn that you just won't believe: set in a tranquil garden estate, large rooms (all private bath), sauna, exercise room, internet access, telephones, swimming pool, laundry, satellite TV.  And, the most accommodating hosts you'll find anywhere.  They are so enthusiastic that the owner is hosting our welcome dinner - with his mamma in the kitchen doing the cooking.

In fact, Nonna Leandra (grandma) is going to do a special cooking class for us and share some traditional family recipes.  Our other classes are nearby and taught by professionals at a local cooking school. One class will be completely devoted to Chocolate!

We'll see cheese made, have a sausage & cheese tasting, visit an antique olive oil frantoio with a museum, tour the Perugina Chocolate Museum and have a tasting, winery, Deruta Ceramic master, and the antique hand looming "factory" (3 employees).  Whew - what a lineup

Oh, yes, the truffles - absolutely not to be believed!  I had a truffle dinner where it looked like it had snowed truffles on my plate. The pasta was insignificant and barely visible under the truffle layer.  I've never eaten so much but I just couldn't bring myself to leave anything on my plate.

Maybe considering the abundance you'll be able to understand my enthusiasm for this new tour.  Don't miss it!

Well, that's a not-so-brief summary of our fall.  Hope to see you soon on a tour -

Ciao

Beverly

2004 TOUR SCHEDULE

Past newsletters
April 2003 :: January, 2003 :: Spring, 2002 :: April 2002 :: Fall/Winter 2001 

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